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Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Ice Sculpturing in Akron


Scouting out a prospective wedding site for a June wedding we met Joseph and Jason chainsawing a piece of ice. They were working off a wooden table behind the hall Joseph manages. The location? St. George Fellowship Centre beside St. George Antiochian Orthodox Christian Church, 3204 Ridgewood Rd in Akron, Ohio. The catering is done by TLC Catering, whose website is: http://tlccateringinc.com/stg.html

Joseph took a 300 lb. block of ice, cut it half vertically and then cut each half vertically in half again so that 4 tall narrow cubes were the result. Each would be made into 4 separate pedestals. St. George's is having an anniversary celebration soon, and one of the ice pedestals is to be used for that occasion. However, Joseph regularly creates personalized pedestals to be used at weddings or other special occasions for TLC at the hall.

How did you learn this art?”, we asked. “One intensive training afternoon session from my friend who does this,” was his answer.

Meet Joseph and his nephew, Jason.









Sunday, January 22, 2012

Portrait Lighting


Portrait Photography in a
Controlled Lighting Environment

Presented by Bonnie and Lou Janelle, LBJ Photography at the
Akron Camera Club Meeting
Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Most photography is done making use of “available light” conditions. That light may come from the sun on a cloudless or cloudy day. It may be direct or indirect (bounced off the side of a building, etc.) Moonlight is sunlight bounced off of the moon. Other sources of found lighting include street lighting, lights from nearby buildings, indoor lighting, and fire.

When creating portraits under available light conditions, the challenge presented the photographer is to control that lighting by using reflectors (white bounce card), flags (black light-blocking card), or light filters such as translucent material, etc.

When cameras were first invented, available light was the only source of lighting for photography. Most early portrait painters made use of these same lighting elements. That changed with the invention of flash or strobe lighting.

With the invention of strobe lighting, the photographer now had the ability to create and control their own “available light”. Controlling the light to create professional-looking portraits is the main subject of our presentation.

This presentation will demonstrate how one can create a professional portrait using from one to three controlled lighting sources. This is a “show and tell” presentation.

We will have a camera set up on a tripod. The camera will be tethered to a laptop computer so that each image that we create is shown immediately on the projected screen for comment and analysis.

We will begin with one light source and look at the effect of moving that light source through five basic positions; the camera and subject will remain in the same position while only the light is moved. The five positions are usually referred to as butterfly, loop, Rembrandt, split, and rim lighting.

We will also discuss and demonstrate the posing of the subject in relation to the five lighting positions. The three main views of the face or body are: full, two-thirds, and profile. We will also point out proper hand placement and body placement with the subject seated and standing. We will also briefly address the concept of “masculine” and “feminine” poses.

More information regarding this presentation can be found on our blog at:



(Additional Notes)
Basic Studio Photography

Start with an empty room.
  • Add subject.
  • Add stool.

Background:
  • Add background (Botero Collapsible #023 Muslim Background, 5' x 7', dark and light grey, cost = $55)
  • Add support stand (Impact light stand; cost = $20)

Lighting Equipment
  • Nikon SB-800 speedlights – cost approximately $400 each.
  • Impact light stands – cost approximately $20 each.
  • Impact 32” convertible umbrellas – cost approximately $15 each.
  • Umbrella brackets – cost approximately $15 each.
  • Westcott Apollo Speedlite Kit with 28” softbox – cost approximately $115.

Portrait Lighting
  • Key Light Placement
    • Butterfly
    • Loop
    • Rembrandt
    • Split
    • Rim or Accent (Profile)
  • Additional Lights
    • Background
    • Fill or Bounce
    • Hair
    • On-axis

Subject Positioning
  • Sitting
  • Masculine Pose
  • Feminine Pose
  • Standing
  • Masculine Pose
  • Feminine Pose

Posing Tips


Posing Tips for Photographers
Bonnie Janelle
Ideas taken from Natalie Norton & Joe Edelman


General guidelines:
  1. The subject will probably be nervous; make them feel comfortable by having him/her hold something or seating them—you may let them put their arm or hand on a table if you seat them. Bring props and always bring a stool.
  2. Distract them from thinking of themselves; find out what interests them; let them talk about what they love, and watch their eyes light up. Aren't the eyes the window to their souls?
  3. If you have to do something outrageous like make crazy noises or bark like a dog or have a tickle fest to “break the ice”, do so! You are on stage to create the atmosphere.
  4. Respect the subject's wish for privacy if he/she is uncomfortable with others watching, move.
  5. The secrets of capturing a great photo are:
    A. Lighting
    B. Creative locations/sets
    C. Composition
    D. Capturing personality
    E. Posing

Specifics in posing:
Body parts speak volumes:
  1. Feet—if they are spread apart about the width size of the hips, they convey “strength”. Standing at a 45-degree angle from the camera with feet slightly apart and angling the right foot toward the camera with the weight on the other foot is a classic standing pose. If the feet are at different heights (like one is on a stool), the image shows depth.
  2. Shoulders—if they are slumped with head down, the pose does not show confidence. If a person stands or sits tall leaning slightly into the camera, the pose not only exudes confidence but shows off one of sexiest parts the body in a photograph—the neck. Leaning into the camera a bit and sitting straight also adds a bit of formality to the image. Shoulders are the widest part of the body—to avoid distraction of the observer's eye zeroing in on the shoulders, angle the body or have the subject lean, lowering one of the shoulders; you can also create this effect by angling the camera or shooting so that one shoulder is slightly out of the frame.
  3. Eyes—two people looking at one another equates to a relationship; child holding a cake and looking at the camera = invitation, but a child holding a cake and looking at the cake = desire. Tension in the photo can be achieved by a person staring into the lens and/or by the person looking outside the frame. (The question becomes, “What is he/she seeing?”)
  4. Head—if the head is tipped back, especially with guys, it gives the impression of “punk”.
  5. Arms—if they are bent, it conveys casualness; if they are straight, they convey formality.
  6. Hands—are probably one of the least noticed detail in posing but most important to the finished image. We take hands for granted, but they convey so much body language. Here are some guidelines: Women's hands should convey elegance; men's hands should convey masculinity. Men's hands can be slightly fisted to convey masculinity; the backs of women's hands should not be facing the camera—turn them so that a side view of the hand faces the camera. In both men and women the fingers should be relaxed.

Group posing:
  1. Apparel is important. Coordinate colors and types of clothes. Have guidelines for groups, and communicate these guidelines. Discuss props.
  2. Angle shoulders at 45 degrees with the left side of the group having left shoulders facing behind, and the right side of the group having right shoulders behind.
  3. Place specific family groups together. For instance if generational shoots are being posed, place specific families together.
  4. Pyramid the group if possible.
  5. Place matriarch and patriarch in the middle sometimes holding a grandchild or great grandchild on matriarch’s lap.
  6. In formal single family shoots the head of household should be at the top the pyramid.


References:







Tuesday, December 27, 2011

How to Become a Professional Photographer


Join an industry organization, such as,
  1. PPA (Professional Photographers of America) – http://www.ppa.com/
  2. PPO (Professional Photographers of Ohio) – http://www.ppofohio.org/
  3. SONOPP (Society of Northeast Ohio Professional Photographers) – http://www.sonopp.com/
  4. ASPP (Akron Society of Professional Photographers) – http://www.akronphotographers.org/
  5. ASMP (Association of Media Photographers) – http://asmp.org/
  6. ASP (American Society of Photographers) – http://www.asofp.com/
  7. ASPP (American Society of Picture Professionals) – http://www.aspp.com/

Offer to work for a local photographer as an apprentice (usually, for no pay).

Get a two-year or bachelor's degree in photography or fine art. Consider taking a workshop in photography.

Get a degree in business!

“P” is for “professional” …

Photography is an unregulated business. There is no degree or certification required. Everyone is (or can be) a photographer!

Those who are successful in photography are those who have developed or acquired good business and marketing skills. The successful photographer spends 90% of their time on business-related activities, such as, creating marketing brochures and answering telephone inquiries.

Get yourself a website and a blog. Maintain a presence on Facebook and other social networking websites.

In most states, you will need to get a vendor's license.  Also, you will need to file income tax returns (both state and federal).  Consider setting up a legitimate business, such as, an LLC (Limited Liability Corporation) or some form of small business entity.  You will need liability insurance (you can get sued)!

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Portrait Portfolio Update

We are currently in the process of updating our website.  Here's a sample of our portrait work:

 

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

loujanelle's photostream

LO-RES_Composite_SavvyLO-RES_Panel_SavvyLO-RES_DSC0042LO-RES_Soft_SpectrumDSC0042LO-RES_DSC0032Soft_Sepia_Lo-Res_DSC0032
Ingrid_06_14_2011_DSC0222Experimenting with posesExperimenting with posesDogwoodRunning for CoverPink Sneaker
TransfixedChristmas_card_2Old_Sturbrige_Village_Grain_Main_NX2_DSC0181_DSC6619_DSC6617_DSC6616
_DSC6615_DSC6614_DSC6612_DSC6611_DSC6610_DSC6609

Modelling photo shoot June 15, 2011. We composited some of the images using Photoshop CS5. The black and white renditions were done with NIK Software's Silver Efex Pro 2.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Photoshop's High Pass Filter


The High Pass Filter
January 26, 2011
Bonnie Janelle
bjj@lbjphoto.com


PHOTOSHOP MENUS AND TOOLS USED:
Menu bar:
Window → Layers; Window → Navigator
Layer → Duplicate layer; Layer → Layer Mask-->Reveal all; Layer → Layer Mask → Hide All
Filter → Other → High Pass; Filter → Blur → Gaussian Blur
Image → Adjustments → Invert
Tool kit:
Magnifying glass: double click on it to bring image to 100% magnification
Hand: double click on it for image to fit in page
Brush: for painting the masks
Options bar:
Brush options: may or may not use for the opacity or the brush or its softness or hardness
Layers Palette fly-out menu: ( Alt.) Merge Visible: creates a layer which combines lower layers
Layers Blend Modes: Vivid light and Overlay

SHARPENING USING THE HIGH PASS FILTER
  1. Duplicate the layer (Layer → Duplicate layer)
  2. Filter → Other → High Pass. Set the radius between 3-5.
  3. Change the blend mode to overlay
  4. Add a layer mask to control the sharpening (Layer → Layer Mask → Reveal all)
  5. Make sure that your mask is selected in the layer
  6. Select the brush tool from the Tool Kit. Make sure that you paint with black
  7. Paint away the sharpening of the wrinkles
  8. Bring down the opacity of the layer if the separations are too harsh.
SOFTENING USING THE HIGH PASS FILTER
  1. Duplicate the layer (Layer → Duplicate layer)
  2. Invert the image (Image → Adjustments → Invert)
  3. Change the duplicate layer's blend mode to Vivid light
  4. Filter → Other → High Pass. Select a radius between 5-15 (6.4) softens
  5. Filter → Blur → Gaussian Blur (about ½ of previous value-- 3.2) brings back skin tone
  6. Add a layer mask to control softening (Layer → Layer Mask → Hide All)
  7. Make sure that your mask is selected in the layer
  8. Select the brush tool from the Tool kit. Make sure that you paint with white.
    9. Paint away the face to soften.
SHARPENING USING THE HIGH PASS FILTER:
Resources:
What sharpening does:
These tutorials show the same technique demonstrated, and both encourage a low radius:
This idea tutorial encourages a high radius:
Video:

PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS:
Simulating masks in Photoshop Elements:

SOFTENING USING THE HIGH PASS FILTER:
Resources:
A similar way to soften using overlay blend mode:
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-soften-skin-with-adobe-photoshop-high-pass-filter-380488/

THE FASCINATING HIGH PASS FILTER: